Everything To Know About Killing Grass In Flower Beds For Good
By SAKSHI KHAITAN
Identification
Before tackling invasive grass, it is important to identify it because your success depends on its lifecycle. You can use guides or get help from a local gardener.
Classify your garden bed to decide on elimination methods. Use mulch and cultivations for annual beds, smothering for perennial beds, and combo of both methods for mixed beds.
Give green blades a soak, either by hose or downpour, then pull the weeds, ensuring no roots remain. This method works best on grasses without creeping runners.
Switch to a hand-held, solid-blade, or stirrup hoe for larger garden beds and hori-hori knives to dig out unwanted growth. Repeat the process if the grasses have gone to seed.
Invasive grasses need sunlight to grow, and cutting off access with mulch will exhaust their reserves, causing them to wither. Spread bark mulch on the infestation.
Lay 2-3 inches of mulch for woody plants and 1 inch for shallow-rooted plants, and follow this method for two growth seasons. Reapply mulch if you notice any seeds germinating.
For tough grasses, irrigate the area and overlay six newspaper sheets or two cardboard pieces, wetting them slightly. Next, cover them with a 2-inch thick layer of mulch.
In growing beds, tear the newspaper around plant driplines before laying. Use a UV-resistant plastic sheet for solarization, but avoid overheating because it can damage your soil.
A propane torch is a powerful tool for killing weeds and intrusive grasses. The heat from the flame expands the sap, breaking cell tissues and preventing recovery.
It’s highly effective on young seedlings that are 2 to 3 inches high. As most grasses have protective sheaths, known as coleoptiles, you may need multiple passes every other week.