Helpful Tips For A Flawless Linoleum Flooring Installation

What goes around comes around — even linoleum floors. A signature fixture in 1960s and '70s homes, linoleum proceeded to go out of style for decades, but it's now rising in popularity again as an eco-friendly, affordable alternative to vinyl floors. Installing linoleum flooring without professional help isn't too difficult, either. You can achieve a flawless look with the right techniques, such as letting the linoleum acclimate to your home first.

Linoleum is made from linseed oil mixed with other materials, such as resin, cork, wood flour, and mineral fillers, and then pressed flat. Although the name "linoleum" is sometimes used to refer to vinyl floors that look similar, the difference between vinyl and linoleum flooring is that vinyl is PVC-based, while linoleum is all-natural and fully biodegradable. Linoleum is more affordable than wood or laminate, and you can install it yourself to minimize costs further.

There are three types of linoleum: sheets, planks, and tiles. Of those, tiles and planks are the easiest to install yourself, while sheets can be tricky to cut to size and may require a pro for the best results. When DIYing a linoleum installation, the keys to a seamless finish are to have patience, ensure a smooth subfloor underneath, cut carefully, and smooth out the surface at the end. These tips will lower the risk of leaving your linoleum floors looking uneven, saggy, or bumpy.

Before you start installing, you'll have to figure out how much linoleum you need. Linoleum tiles generally come in 1-foot squares, though larger and smaller sizes are also available from certain brands. Some tiles are self-adhesive, some require you to add adhesive, and some click into place. Linoleum also comes in planks, which are clickable, and sheets, which usually require added adhesive. Buy enough linoleum for the square footage of the room, plus 10% to 20% extra for wiggle room.

The first step, once you bring the linoleum home, is to wait. That's where patience comes in: linoleum should not be installed right away since it's pliable and will expand or shrink with temperature changes. Your house is likely a different temperature than the warehouse where the linoleum just came from. Wait up to two days to allow the material to reach its new resting size.

While you wait, you can begin removing all of the furniture, appliances, fixtures, baseboards, and nails from the room, along with any flooring currently in place. Check the subfloor to ensure that it's smooth and level, fixing any holes or uneven areas as needed. If the surface underneath the linoleum has imperfections, they're bound to show through the linoleum itself as well, from bumps to sags. If the subfloor isn't in fixable condition, you can also add a foam or plywood underlayment on top, then install the linoleum over that. (This is also a handy workaround if you have wood or tile floors that you want to cover with linoleum without potentially ruining them with glue.)

Precise cuts are essential for an immaculate-looking linoleum installation. While you can use a tape measure, another way to easily visualize the cuts that you need to make is to use butcher paper or something similar first. Lay the paper across the floor and trace the edges, creating a guide that you can then copy onto the linoleum. As you cut, give yourself a few extra inches of leeway. This gives you wiggle room to make mistakes without wasting much product; you can make the final trims when the linoleum is in place using a sharp utility knife or linoleum knife. It may help to leave a very tiny gap at the edges to allow for more expansion.

If you're working with tiles, the steps to apply the adhesive will vary based on the brands you're using, so read the directions carefully. But no matter what, don't apply any adhesive until you've laid out the linoleum to make sure that your measurements are correct and it fits properly. Patience will come in handy here again — it's best to add adhesive in small sections since it often begins to dry out quickly. You may want to add extra glue even if you're using self-adhesive tiles to ensure a secure attachment to the subfloor or underlayment.

Once your linoleum is glued down, go over it with a weighted floor roller that weighs at least 100 pounds, such as this Roberts Linoleum Floor Roller. Work from the center outward. This step is essential to eliminate wrinkles and air bubbles, and it also presses the linoleum and adhesive down more securely. If you don't own a floor roller, you can likely borrow one from your local tool library or tool rental center.

Next, apply a floor sealant to protect the linoleum from stains and moisture, and add a glossy shine. A coat or two of acrylic sealer works best. It's especially important to apply sealant to the seams to prevent them from peeling or allowing moisture underneath. Then prepare to be patient again, because you're not quite there yet — not only does the sealant need to dry, but the glue also needs to cure for at least 24 hours before you can walk on the linoleum or put the furniture and appliances back. Otherwise, you may end up with bumps or deformations even after all that rolling.

Finally, you can put everything back in place and enjoy your new linoleum floors. Moving forward, cleaning and maintaining linoleum flooring is simple: sweep and vacuum regularly, and mop with linoleum-friendly products like plain water and dish soap. Since linoleum is not waterproof, don't let water pool or sit on the surface; towel dry right after mopping. Polish or wax once a month and aim to reseal the floors once a year or so.