How To Avoid Moisture-Prone Insulation During Your Basement Renovation

If you've been thinking of turning wasted space below ground into a valuable extra room for hobbies, study, or relaxation, there are a host of basement remodeling ideas that will inspire you. One thing you'll want to make sure of is that it's warm and cozy. So while you're at the planning stage, it's well worth considering ways to heat the basement without resorting to electric space heaters.

However, all your efforts will be in vain if you don't combat the problems with damp that are typical of rooms with dirt beyond the walls. You'll want to insulate to prevent heat escaping, but avoiding moisture-prone insulation is vital. For example, the use of fiberglass is not recommended. While it can be a cost-effective solution above ground, it will absorb moisture. That can lead to mold growth, and drywall is particularly susceptible because it's porous. The brown or black stains that develop as a result are not just unsightly; they are also a health hazard.

So, let's look at how to avoid moisture-prone insulation during your basement renovation. The questions we need to answer are what type of insulation should you use? Is it suitable for DIY installation? And are there other steps you can take to ensure your basement renovation is free of moisture?

Most basement walls are either concrete blocks or a poured concrete slab. If there are any cracks, they are obvious places for moisture to penetrate. One of the important tips to finish basement walls is to stop these leaks. This can be done with hydraulic cement, such as Drylok Fast Plug, that comes ready to use and sets in just a few minutes.

Many people will now go straight to installing a wooden framework, adding insulation, and hanging drywall, and that's fine. However, if you don't mind spending a little extra time and money for long-term protection and future comfort, you could give the basement walls a complete waterproof coating. Liquid Rubber Basement and Foundation Repair Sealant is water-based, easy to use, and non-toxic. It's also slightly flexible, so it won't crack, flake, or peel off.

One final task, if you have windows, is to check where the frame meets the basement wall. Fill any gaps with caulk to stop water or cold air getting in, and help prevent condensation. If the window itself is single-glazed, you might want to consider a more energy-efficient double-glazed replacement.

There are two main choices when it comes to insulation for your basement renovation that don't suffer the same kind of moisture problems as fiberglass. One is expanded polystyrene (XPS) boards. The other is spray foam insulation, which is a combination of polyurethane and isocyanate that hardens as it dries.

Both benefit from high R-values (how insulation performance is measured). XPS boards are lightweight and easy to cut with a utility knife using the same score and snap technique generally used for drywall. This makes them ideal for DIY installation. Unfortunately, the same is not true for spray foam insulation. While products like Loctite Tite Foam Big Gap Spray Foam can be used for small areas, it's not a practical way to insulate a whole basement. Spray foam is also challenging to work with, and some include toxic chemicals, so while it may increase how much it actually costs to renovate a basement, professional installation is recommended.