How To Prep (And Protect) Your Pressure Washer For Winter

Pressure washers are the stars of our maintenance routine, swiftly removing all stubborn stains and soils off the deck, walkway, siding, and even cars. But like most outdoor gear, these cleaning heroes should be winterized so they're back to business come spring without demur. To do so, remove all tubes and pour in an antifreeze lubricant (also marketed as a pump saver) in the unit. Afterward, cover the machine and stow it away in a dry, ventilated area. Skip the lube if you're storing the power washer indoors where the mercury doesn't fluctuate much nor ice forms, as is the risk in sheds and garages.

Although overwintering pressure washers sounds like a lot of work, it is indispensable. The reason? Despite your best efforts, some amount of water may remain in the inner unit, which freezes up when temperatures drop, in addition to gumming the system through mineral deposits. This severely damages the equipment and may even result in operational failure. Gas-powered variants have it even harder, as the gasoline oxidizes after 30 days, causing the insides to corrode and rust. So, stabilizing the fuel system is necessary when storing them for extended periods.

Before really getting your hands dirty, take care of the engine. In gas-operated washers, begin by shutting off the fuel regulator. Proceed to dispense 1 tablespoon of fuel stabilizer in the gas tank to ensure the fuel quality doesn't deteriorate during the cold months. However, a better measure is to put 1 ounce of fuel stabilizer for every 2 gallons of gasoline. Next, run the washer for 10 minutes to ensure thorough circulation.

In machines missing a fuel valve, siphon out the gas with a hand-held suction tube and move it into a metal canister. Ensure there are no remnants left by letting the equipment run for a minute or more, until all the gasoline in the fuel pipe is exhausted. Now, if you've been slacking at routine maintenance, utilize the time to change the oil to avoid having your engine putter away mid-cleaning. Funnel in fresh motor oil through the fill-up port after emptying the old oil through the drain plug. Follow up by removing the spark plug to oil the cylinder, and after replacing the plug, pulling the recoil for even distribution of the oil.

Irrespective of the engine type, the process of protecting the pressure washers through the winter remains the same. First, detach the spray hose from the outlet and replace it with a plastic container. Next, connect a yard-long hose to the pump's inlet and, using a funnel, begin decanting antifreeze liquid (such as Briggs and Stratton Pump Saver, available at Target for $15.25 for 4 ounces) until it's half-full. Pull the cord so the system is thoroughly layered with the lubricant, which will also push out any water remaining in the system or the pipes.

Continue pulling until the liquid exiting from the outlet into the container resembles its undiluted form. Finally, remove all the pipes from the pressure washer and wipe them clean. Before storing it, scrub off any grime on nozzles, filters, and other pressure washer attachments with a toothbrush or a damp rag. To avoid any hiccups post-winter, remove the battery from the electric washers, as it'll stave off any drainage. Don't forget to wear eye protection throughout the procedure for added protection.

Now your washer is ready for storage: Move the equipment to a dry, sheltered location, cover it with a moisture-resistant cover, and ensure no fire sources abound in your gas-powered washer's storage area. Also, if foraging mice are a recurring problem, pest-proof the zone by installing baits.